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Tips
for Better Pictures
Underwater Photography
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Courtesy
Sealife Cameras
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If
the heat and humidity have got you hot and bothered this
summer, why not dip your big toe into Underwater Photography?
You don't need to buy any expensive equipment if you just
want to experiment. If this is your first attempt, you
can get started by purchasing any of the waterproof single-use
underwater cameras on the market.
This
is a great place to start, especially if you don't plan
on going deeper than 12 feet. The latest single-use waterproof
models from Kodak come with 800 Max Film, the most versatile
of Kodak films, since it works well in bright sunlight
as well as lower light levels.
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If
you're ready to invest in a reusable underwater camera,
we'll tell you about a few of the model we like later
on.
There's
a lot to learn if you get serious about underwater photography.
This article isn't intended to be a thorough introduction
to this complicated subject. Particularly if you want
to take a camera along on scuba dives and work at great
depths, there's a lot to learn and you'll find that some
of the recognized dive organizations also offer very good
photography lessons. In this article, we really want to
get those of you who might be in the pool or surf interested
in the possibilities of using a camera as part of your
recreational swimming or skindiving.
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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A waterproof single use model is perfect for candid photos
of your friends playing around in the pool. You can use
them for interesting results above the water or under
it. With a little experimentation, you can even take a
photo that's half above the surface and half submerged,
like the photo below.
As
you head out to the beach this summer, you should consider
leaving your expensive SLR camera at home, since salt
and sand are the natural enemies of the innards of any
camera. With a waterproof model in your hand, you will
have the option of chasing your frisky pooch or hyper
child into the water without damaging your camera.
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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One
slip by the pool and you could see your precious SLR free
fall to the deep-end. Who needs that stress when you're
on vacation? So don your snorkel, scuba, or swimming goggles
and head to the nearest body of water, be it your neighborhood
swimming pool, beach, or maybe you've got a really big
bathtub. Our underwater photography tips will ensure that
you take great photos wherever you are this summer.
Take
Care!
Since
you are not an amphibian, a few obstacles underwater that
wouldn't befuddle you on land might distract you underwater.
Your body will feel like it's moving in slow motion. It's
important to keep an eye out for nasty predators that
are around you, be they Man-o-war jellyfish or Boogie
boarders. As much as you want that perfect vacation shot,
you do not want to start your summer off on the disabled
list. It's easy to become so fascinated with what's happening
in front of your camera that you neglect what's going
on behind your back.
The
best time to take underwater photos is between 10am-2pm,
because this is when the sun is directly overhead. At
this time you will get optimal sunlight. If you go snorkeling
and stay close to the shore and find the underwater scenery
somewhat Spartan, you can ask a friend to come along with
you to be an underwater model. (Someone with good lungs
who isn't camera shy!)
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©NYI
Student C. Leedham
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One
of the most common mistakes land photographers make when
they are first exploring underwater photography is shooting
from too far away. Remember that when you're underwater
your vision is off. Looking through a face mask, everything
appears about 25% closer than it really is.
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So
if you spot a colorful fish, eel or other creature, move
in close to make up for this. The NYI guidelines apply
underwater too. Remember: Simplify! Don't be bashful with
your finned friends, get in close, and fill up the frame
with your subject to capture a memorable photo. This will
reduce the amount of water you have to shoot through,
which will improve your photo especially if the water
isn't that clear.
Another
thing that can surprise rookie underwater photographers
is the loss of color and light as you plunge down. You
lose color very quickly underwater. The reds are the first
to go. The further down you go, the more muted the colors
will be till your girlfriend's bikini goes from fire engine
red to grayish blue. If your single-use camera has a built-in
flash use it: This will help bring out the bathing suit's
real color.
Silhouettes
in the water can be very powerful images. Do you want
your model to appear dark against the sun-lit water? Then
you should make sure the sun is in front of you, if possible
behind your model. If you want to showcase your subject's
wild color and have the background appear dark and foreboding,
then keep the sun behind you.
We
interviewed two NYI graduates who are now earning their
living as professional underwater photographers, Ian Lauder
and Jim Edds. Recently, Rodale's Scuba Diving Magazine
named Ian "Photographer of the Week." (Check
out Ian's photography at his own Web site, www.cyber-sea.com).
Ian was on his way to Maui to photograph wildlife when
we caught up with him. We asked him what were some of
the mistakes he made when he first started shooting underwater.
Besides giving us the tips about distance and color that
we mentioned earlier, here are some added tips from Ian.
Don't
shoot down unless you have a good reason, like wanting
to shoot dark subjects on a white sandy bottom.
Shoot
at an upward angle to capture a more dramatic image.
Learn
the capabilities of your camera setup.
Be
aware of dive gear, kelp, bubbles, etc. floating in front
of the lens.
Isolate
the subject from the background so it stands out.
Most
motion is slower under water, so you should keep this
in mind if you are using SLR, when selecting your shutter
speed.
Ian
uses Fuji slide film in blue water and Kodachrome slide
film ASA 64 or 200 in green water. Fuji films can make
the water look a little bluer, but Kodachrome can give
you a more realistic color.
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©NYI
Student Jim Edds
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Another
NYI graduate who is making a name for himself in underwater
photography is Jim Edds in Florida. His photos of free
diving champion and fashion model Mehgan Heaney-Grier,
one of which is show above, have circled the globe. He
had a full-page image of Mehgan published in People magazine
and the London Times. He was recently hobnobbing with
Club Medders in Sardinia at the Second Free Diving Competition.
The photos he took of the competitors were published in
ESPN's magazine.
Most
of the time, Jim's film of choice is Fuji 100 film. He
uses an aluminum housing from Aqua Vision Systems. "The
trick is to shoot close with a wide angle with an auto-focus
camera because depth of field underwater is very unforgiving,"
says Jim.
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Have
you ever dreamed of free diving in a Florida swamp to
look for alligators to cuddle up with? In this photo Jim
took, the brave man named "Manny" appears to
be tickling the gator. Jim tells us that Manny has been
interacting with gators since he was a kid and figured
out that approaching them underneath like this was not
threatening, but touch the gator on top of the nose and
you will get the opposite reaction.
(Do not try this at home!) This photo appeared in Playboy
Germany. Jim used Kodak Royal Gold 400 film for this shot,
as there's not much light in the swamps.
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©NYI
Student Jim Edds
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©NYI
Student Jeremy Wilcox
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Hint for landlubbers: Maybe you don't even like to swim,
and the idea of free diving in a clear blue ocean or a
muddy swamp strikes you a foolhardy. You may be able to
use you regular camera and take some great photos of animals
that are underwater while you stand safe and dry on terra
firma. How? Many local zoos now feature glass-sided tanks
where you can photograph your subjects underwater, like
these two hulking hippos. Just watch the lighting. Either
don't use flash, or if you do, make sure you're not perpendicular
to the glass surface because you'll get a nasty reflection.
Shooting through glass works best if your flash is 30-degrees
or more off perpendicular.
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Underwater
Cameras
If you feel very comfortable fathoms deep among the fish
and you want to go beyond the single-use cameras, there
are a few underwater cameras and accompanying accessories
that can add to your underwater photography experience.
For the beginning underwater photographer there are reloadable
underwater cameras on the market that are modestly priced
so you won't have to dip into your nest egg.
There
are a few things to consider before buying an underwater
camera. How much do you want to spend? How deep are going
to go?
The
Bonica Snapper Camera can be purchased for around
for $129. The Bonica Snapper uses 35mm film and a built
in electronic flash, is sealed with a silicone 0-ring,
and can withstand a depth of 150 feet. You can also buy
accessories such as a Neon Strobe Light to enhance picture
quality in poor lighting areas. The arm is easily adjustable.
You can attach it to the camera or hold it in your hand.
The close-up Kit helps you sharpen the photos you take
at 10" to 24." The Snapper Complete Set comes
with the Snapper camera, the close-up lens, the neon flash
and strobe, in a fully padded, rain and sun-proof Twill
nylon case costs $499 (suggested retail price). For more
information, check out their website at www.bonicadive.com.
Underwater
Housings
Another possibility is to put the camera you own into
an underwater housing. What are housings? You will hear
a lot about these glass and metal things in the underwater
world. Housings are camera protectors made of glass and
metal that fit snuggly around your regular camera and
protect it from the water.
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Ikelite
makes a housing that works with Kodak, Fuji, and AquaSnap
single-use cameras. Their latest model, the AquaShot 3e,
works with the latest Kodak and Fuji single-use cameras,
but not the FunSavers. The FunSavers work with the AquaShot
2 versions. This really isn't as complicated as it sounds.
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The AquaShot 3 retails for $90. This housing comes
with its own reloadable Fuji Endeavor-10 APS camera (retail
value $55). Ultra compact and lightweight, the AquaShot
3e housing features an optical grade glass lens, built-in
handgrip with lanyard, accessory shoe, and a sports finder
for easy framing. Operates to 38mm (125'). An AquaShot
package complete with the Fuji camera, housing, Substrobe,
Macro Kit, Travel Bag and batteries retails at $340. (In
some newsgroups we've read posts that claim that this
can be purchased for less than $200 so, as with everything,
it pays to shop around.)
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Courtesy
Ikelite
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The
Ikelite site (www.ikelite.com) is worth visiting.
The
SeaLife Skindiver Camera retails for $99 and has
a built in automatic flash and it can withstand 45"
depth. Its close cousin the SeaLife ReefMaster offers
the same built-in flash and auto-exposure and a 164"
depth for $189. (See photo)
The
Canon Sure Shot A1 has an extra large viewfinder,
which comes in handy when you're wearing thick scuba goggles.
This sporty yellow camera costs $250. Something to consider
when buying a good quality underwater camera is that these
cameras are also great land cameras. You will be able
to use them throughout the year and maybe take a few memorable
shots of a rainstorm. Minolta also makes an APS underwater
model, the Vectis Weathermatic.
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Courtesy
Ikelite
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If
you become addicted to underwater photography and want
to take it to the highest level, then buying a Nikonos
V or older Nikonos model such as Nikonos II and III is
a good investment. The high-end waterproof cameras like
the Nikonos series are in the $950 range. That's the suggested
retail price, a dealer will usually knock off a couple
hundred dollars off of this. You can probably find a used
one for half that price by searching the Web or visiting
your local used camera shop.
Ikelite
makes flash gear and accessories that are designed to
get optimum performance out of the Nikonos cameras, so
make sure to check their on-line catalog.
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Reprinted
with permission from the New York Institute of Photography website
at http://www.nyip.com
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