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Tips
for Better Pictures
Underwater Photography
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Courtesy
Sealife
Cameras
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If
the heat and humidity have got you hot and bothered
this summer, why not dip your big toe into Underwater
Photography? You don't need to buy any expensive equipment
if you just want to experiment. If this is your first
attempt, you can get started by purchasing any of the
waterproof single-use underwater cameras on the market.
This
is a great place to start, especially if you don't plan
on going deeper than 12 feet. The latest single-use
waterproof models from Kodak come with 800 Max Film,
the most versatile of Kodak films, since it works well
in bright sunlight as well as lower light levels.
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If
you're ready to invest in a reusable underwater camera,
we'll tell you about a few of the model we like later
on.
There's
a lot to learn if you get serious about underwater photography.
This article isn't intended to be a thorough introduction
to this complicated subject. Particularly if you want
to take a camera along on scuba dives and work at great
depths, there's a lot to learn and you'll find that
some of the recognized dive organizations also offer
very good photography lessons. In this article, we really
want to get those of you who might be in the pool or
surf interested in the possibilities of using a camera
as part of your recreational swimming or skindiving.
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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A
waterproof single use model is perfect for candid photos
of your friends playing around in the pool. You can
use them for interesting results above the water or
under it. With a little experimentation, you can even
take a photo that's half above the surface and half
submerged, like the photo below.
As
you head out to the beach this summer, you should consider
leaving your expensive SLR camera at home, since salt
and sand are the natural enemies of the innards of any
camera. With a waterproof model in your hand, you will
have the option of chasing your frisky pooch or hyper
child into the water without damaging your camera.
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©Chuck
DeLaney NYI Dean
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One
slip by the pool and you could see your precious SLR
free fall to the deep-end. Who needs that stress when
you're on vacation? So don your snorkel, scuba, or swimming
goggles and head to the nearest body of water, be it
your neighborhood swimming pool, beach, or maybe you've
got a really big bathtub. Our underwater photography
tips will ensure that you take great photos wherever
you are this summer.
Take
Care!
Since
you are not an amphibian, a few obstacles underwater
that wouldn't befuddle you on land might distract you
underwater. Your body will feel like it's moving in
slow motion. It's important to keep an eye out for nasty
predators that are around you, be they Man-o-war jellyfish
or Boogie boarders. As much as you want that perfect
vacation shot, you do not want to start your summer
off on the disabled list. It's easy to become so fascinated
with what's happening in front of your camera that you
neglect what's going on behind your back.
The
best time to take underwater photos is between 10am-2pm,
because this is when the sun is directly overhead. At
this time you will get optimal sunlight. If you go snorkeling
and stay close to the shore and find the underwater
scenery somewhat Spartan, you can ask a friend to come
along with you to be an underwater model. (Someone with
good lungs who isn't camera shy!)
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©NYI
Student C. Leedham
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One
of the most common mistakes land photographers make
when they are first exploring underwater photography
is shooting from too far away. Remember that when you're
underwater your vision is off. Looking through a face
mask, everything appears about 25% closer than it really
is.
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So
if you spot a colorful fish, eel or other creature,
move in close to make up for this. The NYI guidelines
apply underwater too. Remember: Simplify! Don't be bashful
with your finned friends, get in close, and fill up
the frame with your subject to capture a memorable photo.
This will reduce the amount of water you have to shoot
through, which will improve your photo especially if
the water isn't that clear.
Another
thing that can surprise rookie underwater photographers
is the loss of color and light as you plunge down. You
lose color very quickly underwater. The reds are the
first to go. The further down you go, the more muted
the colors will be till your girlfriend's bikini goes
from fire engine red to grayish blue. If your single-use
camera has a built-in flash use it: This will help bring
out the bathing suit's real color.
Silhouettes
in the water can be very powerful images. Do you want
your model to appear dark against the sun-lit water?
Then you should make sure the sun is in front of you,
if possible behind your model. If you want to showcase
your subject's wild color and have the background appear
dark and foreboding, then keep the sun behind you.
We
interviewed two NYI graduates who are now earning their
living as professional underwater photographers, Ian
Lauder and Jim Edds. Recently, Rodale's Scuba Diving
Magazine named Ian "Photographer of the Week."
(Check out Ian's photography at his own Web site, www.cyber-sea.com).
Ian was on his way to Maui to photograph wildlife when
we caught up with him. We asked him what were some of
the mistakes he made when he first started shooting
underwater. Besides giving us the tips about distance
and color that we mentioned earlier, here are some added
tips from Ian.
Don't
shoot down unless you have a good reason, like wanting
to shoot dark subjects on a white sandy bottom.
Shoot
at an upward angle to capture a more dramatic image.
Learn
the capabilities of your camera setup.
Be
aware of dive gear, kelp, bubbles, etc. floating in
front of the lens.
Isolate
the subject from the background so it stands out.
Most
motion is slower under water, so you should keep this
in mind if you are using SLR, when selecting your shutter
speed.
Ian
uses Fuji slide film in blue water and Kodachrome slide
film ASA 64 or 200 in green water. Fuji films can make
the water look a little bluer, but Kodachrome can give
you a more realistic color.
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©NYI
Student Jim Edds
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Another
NYI graduate who is making a name for himself in underwater
photography is Jim Edds in Florida. His photos of free
diving champion and fashion model Mehgan Heaney-Grier,
one of which is show above, have circled the globe.
He had a full-page image of Mehgan published in People
magazine and the London Times. He was recently hobnobbing
with Club Medders in Sardinia at the Second Free Diving
Competition. The photos he took of the competitors were
published in ESPN's magazine.
Most
of the time, Jim's film of choice is Fuji 100 film.
He uses an aluminum housing from Aqua Vision Systems.
"The trick is to shoot close with a wide angle
with an auto-focus camera because depth of field underwater
is very unforgiving," says Jim.
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Have
you ever dreamed of free diving in a Florida swamp to
look for alligators to cuddle up with? In this photo
Jim took, the brave man named "Manny" appears
to be tickling the gator. Jim tells us that Manny has
been interacting with gators since he was a kid and
figured out that approaching them underneath like this
was not threatening, but touch the gator on top of the
nose and you will get the opposite reaction.
(Do not try this at home!) This photo appeared in Playboy
Germany. Jim used Kodak Royal Gold 400 film for this
shot, as there's not much light in the swamps.
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©NYI
Student Jim Edds
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©NYI
Student Jeremy Wilcox
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Hint
for landlubbers: Maybe you don't even like to swim,
and the idea of free diving in a clear blue ocean or
a muddy swamp strikes you a foolhardy. You may be able
to use you regular camera and take some great photos
of animals that are underwater while you stand safe
and dry on terra firma. How? Many local zoos now feature
glass-sided tanks where you can photograph your subjects
underwater, like these two hulking hippos. Just watch
the lighting. Either don't use flash, or if you do,
make sure you're not perpendicular to the glass surface
because you'll get a nasty reflection. Shooting through
glass works best if your flash is 30-degrees or more
off perpendicular.
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Underwater
Cameras
If
you feel very comfortable fathoms deep among the fish
and you want to go beyond the single-use cameras, there
are a few underwater cameras and accompanying accessories
that can add to your underwater photography experience.
For the beginning underwater photographer there are
reloadable underwater cameras on the market that are
modestly priced so you won't have to dip into your nest
egg.
There
are a few things to consider before buying an underwater
camera. How much do you want to spend? How deep are
going to go?
The
Bonica
Snapper Camera can be purchased
for around for $129. The Bonica Snapper uses 35mm film
and a built in electronic flash, is sealed with a silicone
0-ring, and can withstand a depth of 150 feet. You can
also buy accessories such as a Neon Strobe Light to
enhance picture quality in poor lighting areas. The
arm is easily adjustable. You can attach it to the camera
or hold it in your hand. The close-up Kit helps you
sharpen the photos you take at 10" to 24."
The Snapper Complete Set comes with the Snapper camera,
the close-up lens, the neon flash and strobe, in a fully
padded, rain and sun-proof Twill nylon case costs $499
(suggested retail price). For more information, check
out their website at www.bonicadive.com.
Underwater
Housings
Another
possibility is to put the camera you own into an underwater
housing. What are housings? You will hear a lot about
these glass and metal things in the underwater world.
Housings are camera protectors made of glass and metal
that fit snuggly around your regular camera and protect
it from the water.
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Ikelite
makes a housing that works with Kodak, Fuji, and AquaSnap
single-use cameras. Their latest model, the AquaShot
3e, works with the latest Kodak and Fuji single-use
cameras, but not the FunSavers. The FunSavers work with
the AquaShot 2 versions. This really isn't as complicated
as it sounds.
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The
AquaShot
3 retails for $90. This housing
comes with its own reloadable Fuji Endeavor-10 APS camera
(retail value $55). Ultra compact and lightweight, the
AquaShot 3e housing features an optical grade glass
lens, built-in handgrip with lanyard, accessory shoe,
and a sports finder for easy framing. Operates to 38mm
(125'). An AquaShot package complete with the Fuji camera,
housing, Substrobe, Macro Kit, Travel Bag and batteries
retails at $340. (In some newsgroups we've read posts
that claim that this can be purchased for less than
$200 so, as with everything, it pays to shop around.)
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Courtesy
Ikelite
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The
Ikelite site (www.ikelite.com) is worth visiting.
The
SeaLife
Skindiver Camera retails for
$99 and has a built in automatic flash and it can withstand
45" depth. Its close cousin the SeaLife ReefMaster
offers the same built-in flash and auto-exposure and
a 164" depth for $189. (See photo)
The
Canon
Sure Shot A1 has an extra
large viewfinder, which comes in handy when you're wearing
thick scuba goggles. This sporty yellow camera costs
$250. Something to consider when buying a good quality
underwater camera is that these cameras are also great
land cameras. You will be able to use them throughout
the year and maybe take a few memorable shots of a rainstorm.
Minolta also makes an APS underwater model, the Vectis
Weathermatic.
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Courtesy
Ikelite
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If
you become addicted to underwater photography and want
to take it to the highest level, then buying a Nikonos
V or older Nikonos model such as Nikonos II and III
is a good investment. The high-end waterproof cameras
like the Nikonos series are in the $950 range. That's
the suggested retail price, a dealer will usually knock
off a couple hundred dollars off of this. You can probably
find a used one for half that price by searching the
Web or visiting your local used camera shop.
Ikelite
makes flash gear and accessories that are designed to
get optimum performance out of the Nikonos cameras,
so make sure to check their on-line catalog.
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Reprinted
with permission from the New York Institute of Photography website
at http://www.nyip.com
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